Bestseller, Mango, Levi Strauss, Target and Walmart among brands who provided no information on how they have ensured responsible purchasing practices during the recent unrest.

Following the recent unrest in Bangladesh, the Business & Human Rights Resource Centre (BHRRC) reached out to the top 15 international fashion brands sourcing from Bangladesh, as well as five additional companies identified as strategic by local trade unions, to request information on how they are addressing the disruption in the country’s garment sector.

Brands were also asked how they are upholding responsible purchasing practices and what support they are providing to suppliers and, in turn, to affected workers. According to reports, garment workers in the country have faced mandatory overtime, increased production targets, higher transportation costs to reach factories, and even delayed wage payments and non-payment of wages.

Out of the 20 brands contacted by BHRRC, only 12 responded: Adidas, ASDA, C&A, GAP, H&M, Inditex, Marks & Spencer, Next, PUMA, PVH Corp., Tesco and Primark.

Eight brands failed to respond: Bestseller, Mango, JC Penney, Kontoor Brands, Levi Strauss, Target, Tom Tailor and Walmart.

Based on the survey responses, BHRRC identified some areas of concern:

• Many brands are reluctant to provide information on the impact of the protests. Despite corporate accountability and transparency being critical during times of such heightened risk to workers, 40% of brands contacted did not respond to the survey and provided no information on how they are ensuring worker welfare.
• Assurances of worker wages vary between brands. While some brands stated July wages were paid on time and in full (GAP, PUMA, PVH, Primark, Tesco, Next and H&M), others were not able to confirm this.
• There are varying levels of commitment to providing suppliers with financial support. While there were financial and non-financial commitments made by some brands to assist suppliers, Next, PVH, Primark and Tesco have not provided any specific financial assistance to suppliers. GAP, Inditex and PUMA did not answer the question.
• While 12 brands affirmed they have not transferred orders to other countries, maintaining order stability in Bangladesh despite the crisis, nine companies (BESTSELLER, Mango, JC Penney, Kontoor Brands, Levi Strauss, Target, Tom Tailor, Walmart) ) failed to provide this assurance. This is particularly concerning given the BHRRC’s own monitoring is showing increased reports and concerns that orders are being moved to other sourcing countries, impacting the sustainability of Bangladesh’s textile industry and vitally the livelihoods of workers making a living in the sector.

However, some brands also demonstrated signs of better practice:

• All 12 responding brands indicated they had forgiven production delays and not imposed penalties for late deliveries following the supply chain disruption. While these assurances are welcome, questions remain regarding how widespread this commitment is across the rest of the sector.

Natalie Swan, Labour Rights Programme Manager, Business & Human Rights Resource Centre, said: “Since the unrest erupted in Bangladesh in July, trade unions have highlighted in the country’s garment sector, who have highlighted significant concerns regarding worker rights and safety during this crisis. There have been reports of workers facing mandatory overtime to meet production targets, as well as increased transport costs to reach factories, instances of non-payment or delayed wages and an understandable sense of heightened anxiety about their future.

“While there is a general trend among brands towards acknowledging the importance of worker rights, all brands must act immediately to ensure workers are not paying the price of supply chain instability. The situation in Bangladesh has underscored the unreliable nature of supply chains and the unpredictability of the garment industry.

“There is urgent need for brands to play their part in stabilising supply chains for workers and suppliers. The 12 companies that responded to this survey exemplified some better practices in this regard, maintaining production in Bangladesh through the crisis and forgiving production delays. The same cannot be said for the other eight that did not acknowledge our survey.

“Brands must realise how they conduct business with their suppliers has an immense impact on worker rights during a crisis such as this one. Today it is happening in Bangladesh, but tomorrow it might be somewhere else. We are in a time of multiple different crises, but it is always workers at the bottom of the supply chain who end up paying the price – this is what all these crises have in common.”

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Notes to editors: 

• Business & Human Rights Resource Centre (BHRRC) is an international NGO that tracks the human rights impacts of companies across the globe.
• The ‘Who pays for the crisis?’ project from the Business & Human Rights Resource Centre looks at how apparel brands’ purchasing practices are affecting workers’ rights across the globe. The online portal hosts key information and analysis on supply chain shocks, how brands are responding to these, and the ultimate impact their actions have on workers.
• The full survey sent to brands about the Bangladesh crisis can be found here, alongside further detail about how each brand responded.

Media contact: Kate Bermingham, Media Officer, Business & Human Rights Resource Centre, [email protected]