abusesaffiliationarrow-downarrow-leftarrow-rightarrow-upattack-typeburgerchevron-downchevron-leftchevron-rightchevron-upClock iconclosedeletedevelopment-povertydiscriminationdollardownloademailenvironmentexternal-linkfacebookfiltergenderglobegroupshealthC4067174-3DD9-4B9E-AD64-284FDAAE6338@1xinformation-outlineinformationinstagraminvestment-trade-globalisationissueslabourlanguagesShapeCombined Shapeline, chart, up, arrow, graphLinkedInlocationmap-pinminusnewsorganisationotheroverviewpluspreviewArtboard 185profilerefreshIconnewssearchsecurityPathStock downStock steadyStock uptagticktooltiptwitteruniversalityweb

이 페이지는 한국어로 제공되지 않으며 English로 표시됩니다.

보고

2023년 4월 1일

저자:
Clean Clothes Campaign,
저자:
Fair Trade Advocacy Office (FTAO)

Europe: Report finds brands exerting 'economic pressure' on manufacturers, calls for integration of purchasing practices in CSDDD

"Fast Fashion Purchasing Practices in the EU", April 2023

[...]

European garment production profits from...proximity to brands’ headquarters and retail markets in geographical terms...At the same time, brands equally profit from cheap labour within Europe. In this report, we concentrate on two very important clusters of garment production within the EU: the Italian fast fashion system and the outward processing in Central-East, East, and South-East Europe.

The volatility and flexibility of orders placed in countries like Bulgaria, Romania, Croatia, or Czechia are facilitated by an EU production and trade scheme introduced in the seventies: the Outward Processing Trade (OPT). This means that mostly pre-cut fabrics are delivered to nearby low-wage countries, where the labour-intensive sewing and finishing are carried out, to be re-imported free of customs duties. Apparel supply chains within an OPT arrangement are characterised by particularly imbalanced relations of power and influence – with meagre perspectives to escape this role and upgrade. OPT thus creates regional clusters of poverty, covering-up, fear, and informality.

In Bulgaria, Romania, Croatia, Czechia, Italy, and Germany, we interviewed 11 managers or owners of 1st tier manufacturers, 7 buyers or former buyers of brands, 3 heads of garment manufacturer associations, 5 consultants or social auditors, 4 experts, 3 representatives of Multistakeholder Initiatives and 3 leaders of unions active in the garment industry...With smaller volumes and still low prices per piece, the economic pressure exerted by brands and retailers upon European manufacturers is arguably higher compared to other key garmentproducing regions. Therefore, manufacturers are desperate for orders, despite lower margins. Indeed, manufacturers see any negotiation with brands as a “lost cause” on all fronts, but particularly on price negotiations...In contrast, brands and retailers buying from such firms seem to make most of their leverage, and demand changes in prices and times to their favour. This results in a general trend for lower prices, shortened lead times, more order changes, extended payment deadlines, and the increased transfer of “hidden” costs to manufacturers...

Widespread small and fast orders characterise the European garment manufacturing sector with already dramatic business-to-business power imbalances, giving buyers even more influence in defining terms and conditions than elsewhere. The report concludes with several concrete recommendations for fairer contract terms, for example on the maximum delay of payments, level of prices, lead times, conditions for the use of clauses such as ‘force majeure’, and penalties. However, while brands and retailers can take immediate action by committing to adopt fair practices in their buying policies, legislative action at EU level is needed to set a level playing field. In this regard, the report suggests adoption of an EU directive that bans the most harmful purchasing practices in textile and garment supply chains, accompanied by a strong enforcement strategy; and recommends that purchasing practices are integrated in the due diligence process that companies will be required to undertake following implementation of the upcoming Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive.

타임라인

개인정보

이 웹사이트는 쿠키 및 기타 웹 저장 기술을 사용합니다. 아래에서 개인정보보호 옵션을 설정할 수 있습니다. 변경 사항은 즉시 적용됩니다.

웹 저장소 사용에 대한 자세한 내용은 다음을 참조하세요 데이터 사용 및 쿠키 정책

Strictly necessary storage

ON
OFF

Necessary storage enables core site functionality. This site cannot function without it, so it can only be disabled by changing settings in your browser.

분석 쿠키

ON
OFF

귀하가 우리 웹사이트를 방문하면 Google Analytics를 사용하여 귀하의 방문 정보를 수집합니다. 이 쿠키를 수락하면 저희가 귀하의 방문에 대한 자세한 내용을 이해하고, 정보 표시 방법을 개선할 수 있습니다. 모든 분석 정보는 익명이 보장되며 귀하를 식별하는데 사용하지 않습니다. Google은 모든 브라우저에 대해 Google Analytics 선택 해제 추가 기능을 제공합니다.

프로모션 쿠키

ON
OFF

우리는 소셜미디어와 검색 엔진을 포함한 제3자 플랫폼을 통해 기업과 인권에 대한 뉴스와 업데이트를 제공합니다. 이 쿠키는 이러한 프로모션의 성과를 이해하는데 도움이 됩니다.

이 사이트에 대한 개인정보 공개 범위 선택

이 사이트는 필요한 핵심 기능 이상으로 귀하의 경험을 향상시키기 위해 쿠키 및 기타 웹 저장 기술을 사용합니다.