India: NGO Transparentem traces cotton farmed under conditions of forced & child labour to multinational apparel brands & retailers
An investigation from NGO Transparentem, published in January 2025, links labour violations occurring on cotton farms supplying to three Indian textile suppliers to 60 multinational clothing brands, including Adidas, Amazon, American Eagle, ASDA, Carrefour, Columbia Sportswear, Gap and many others. The investigation, conducted between June 2022 and March 2023 spanned 90 cotton farms in Madhya Pradesh and revealed conditions amounting to forced and child labour. An interim report was published in July 2023. Debt bondage, wage violations, abusive working conditions and hazardous working conditions (including where children were found to be handling pesticides) were reported.
Cotton from the investigated farms was traced to two suppliers - Pratibha Syntex and Remei India - and then to various ginning mills and the supply chain of a third cotton yarn, textiles and apparel supplier, Maral Overseas. Transparentem used export and shipping data to identify multiple apparel brands and retailers. From late 2023, Transparentem contacted the three suppliers and 60 brands and retailers to share findings and recommendations. All were given an opportunity to address the findings of the investigation.
Full details of company responses can be found in the report as well as a summary of brand actions at the time of publication and over a year since findings were shared with all companies. Transparentem said it was encouraged "that many buyers and all suppliers are collaborating with stakeholders to develop remediation plans and improve their understanding of conditions on cotton farms in the region".