"Complaints lodged against brands over Myanmar" 14 November 2024

The IndustriALL globaI union has filed complaints against three leading brands – Next, New Yorker and LPP – over their continued sourcing from Myanmar despite "overwhelming evidence of continuous violations of workers’ rights" since the coup of 2021.

IndustriALL, together with banned Myanmar unions CTUM and IWFM, lodged complaints with the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD)'s National Contact Points (NCPs) in the UK, Germany, the Netherlands and Poland.

The complaints allege the companies are in breach of the OECD Guidelines for Multinational Enterprises on Responsible Business Conduct which call for companies to operate ethically and responsibly regarding human and labour rights.

German brand New Yorker and LPP, from Poland, were among brands recently linked to the most allegations of worker abuse in Myanmar by a tracker run by the Business and Human Rights Resource Centre (BHRRC). Suppliers to UK brand Next have also been accused of mistreating workers...

“Brands that stay in Myanmar are benefiting from an environment of fear, forced labour and exploitation," commented IndustriALL general secretary Atle Høie...

IndustriALL says the textile and garment industry has become an important way for the country’s military rulers to inject foreign money into a collapsing economy.

Meanwhile, it says, Myanmar’s military junta has banned unions, arrested union leaders and restricted freedom of association, meaning that unions and other workers’ organisations can no longer function.

“We have been urging multinational companies to exit from Myanmar as their existence contributes to the severe violations of human rights and labour rights in the country," said Khaing Zar Aung, the exiled president of the IWFM.

"The brands pretend they comply with the OECD guidelines and human rights due diligence, which is impossible under a military dictatorship. Industrial zones are under martial law and the right to freedom of association is banned...

Magdalena Bratlie, social issues specialist with LPP's purchasing and ESG department, said the company did not accept abuses or violations of human and labour rights in its suppliers' factories, regardless of location.

All factories had to accept the LPP's 'Code of Conduct' and the company was currently conducting thorough audits of its suppliers in Myanmar which placed particular emphasis on health and safety, employment conditions, pay and working time, freedom of association and union representation.

"We verify reported cases of abuse very carefully," said Bratlie. "If violations are detected, we have the right to gradually reduce the number of orders and resign from cooperation with such a supplier or immediately terminate the contract."

Ecotextile News has also approached Next and New Yorker for comment.