"SACOM的调查员于2015年以及2016年的春天，以工人身份于四间位于中国及沿海以及内陆省份的代工厂进行卧底调查…发现，这些代工厂为了达 成 品牌紧迫的送货时间，迫使工人加班…是次所有工厂的工资都以十分微薄的固定件价计算，工人唯有透过加 班尽其可能地增加产量，才能勉强餬口。淡旺季以及品牌频繁地改变订单款式更令工人的工资不稳定。总的来说，工人的工资实质上十分低，不足以维持生活所需… 工人经常在没有充足防护设备的情况下接触有毒化学物品，棉尘和有害粉尘…所有工厂都没有能真正代表工人的工会，或者让员工发声的管道。工会大多由管理层组 成；当工人尝试罢工时，工人代表则被工厂打压或是贿赂..."
"We have taken the SACOM report seriously and our Supplier Sustainability team has conducted full investigations into the two facilities named in the report. For the issues raised in the report that were validated and found to be true, we are working with our suppliers to develop time-bound action plans to resolve them, and address their root causes to ensure sustainable improvements are made. We will also be partnering with the other buyers that work with these suppliers to conduct follow-up visits to validate that all issues identified are fully resolved, and will seek to ensure that the improvements made are sustained in the future."
"...Inditex would like to note that it was not contacted by SACOM in the compilation of the report. In response, Inditex would like to...clarify some inaccuracies in the SACOM report; and to provide specific comments relating to Inditex’s approach to each of the report’s three conclusions...1) Inditex Social Compliance Strategy...2) Inditex’s Supply Chain Strategy in China...3) [C]larifying inaccuracies in SACOM’s report...4) Regarding specific factories referenced in the report as producing for Inditex...
5) SACOM’s report conclusion...a)...Facilitate the factories in changing the unfair infrastructure of wages by paying a living wage...Inditex has implemented a global strategy for living wages...with the partnership of IndustriALL Global Union...Promoting collective bargaining...Responsible purchasing practices...Improved working methods and systems...Collaboration with other stakeholders...Support campaigns...b)...Provide workers with sufficient working health and safety training and empower them with information...Inditex thus conducts ongoing commitment to training suppliers, placing the resources they need at their disposal...c)...Give back workers’ right to organise, [form] a genuine represented worker union...Inditex considers that worker participation in the supply chain as a core principle, and this is reflected in the Global Framework Agreement signed with IndustriALL Global Union in 2007...With regards to China...Inditex is working with IndustriALL on a project in Guangdong to better understand working conditions in the region and establish action plans to improved worker welfare. Nanhai Nan Bao Shoes Factory is specifically involved in this programme..."
“...H&M has been addressing these issues for years and has put great effort in the sourcing countries to improve working conditions and strengthen workers' rights. There are still challenges, but we can see that the work we do makes a difference.
In China, we have a team of around 40 people dedicated to driving our sustainability programs...[W]e are well aware of the challenges raised in the report, including issues with transparency. We believe...in supporting [long-term business partners] to handle challenges common to the industry. Transparency is a fundamental requirement in all our business relationships. Our team frequently visit the factories, also on an unnanounced basis, and regularly conduct interviews with the workers.
We agree that improvement in workers’ ability to negotiate and collective bargaining is key to drive sustainable improvements in the industry, which is why we have initiated several programs to support functional worker representation in our suppliers’ factories (democratically elected workers participating committees or trade unions) in China in order to strengthen workers right to collective bargaining and wage negotiations. H&M is since 2013 running a Social Dialogue project in China supporting our Fair Living Wage Strategy. The goal is that all our strategic suppliers should have democratically elected workers representatives in place...In 2013 we launched our Fair Living Wage Strategy, which is an important contribution to the work towards fairer pay in the textile industry...”
作者: Olivia Yang & J. Michael Cole, The News Lens
Three of the world’s top fashion labels, Zara, H&M and Gap, are supplied from factories which abuse workers’ rights, a...non-government organization...Students and Scholars Against Corporate Misbehavior (SACOM) says it went undercover inside factories in Guangdong, Anhui, Shandong, and Hubei, provinces where shoes or garments for the brands are made…Despite the companies’ claims to strong corporate social responsibility (CSR) records, SACOM says its investigation reveals a “remarkable disparity between the brands’ supplier factory CSR policies and the reality in their Chinese supplier factories.”
…SACOM is calling on the companies to work with its suppliers to improve working hours, remove “unfair” pay structures, provide a safe working environment and allow worker representation in unions.
作者: Students and Scholars Against Corporate Misbehaviour (SACOM)
…In...2015 and 2016, SACOM conducted undercover investigations inside four of Zara, H&M, and GAP’s supplier factories in China…
[T]he research found that…supplier factories force workers to work overtime to meet disproportionally tight delivery time…Their wages were even unstable due to the frequent changes in designs, and difference between high and low seasons. Workers ended up not being paid a living wage…[W]orkers were exposed to toxic chemicals, cotton dust and hazardous dusts without protective gear…[T]here was no genuine representation of workers or channel for workers to voice out. Worker unions were formed by managers themselves; when workers went on strike, they were suppressed or corrupted by the factory...
This report points out that the real reason why brands CSR policies have evolved for more than a decade but still failed to achieve their CSR goals is that they merely rely on the falsifying and top-down audits. SACOM demands three brands take the following actions:
- Facilitate the factories in changing the unfair infrastructure of wages by paying a living wage for the work within standard working hours.
- Provide workers with sufficient working health and safety training and empower them with information and knowledge to safeguard their own rights.
- Give back workers’ right to organise, form a genuine represented worker union such that they can elect their own representatives and have collective bargaining with the factory to fight for a better working condition.
作者: 大学师生监察无良企业行动 (SACOM)
SACOM的调查员于2015年以及2016年的春天，以工人身份于四间位于中国及沿海以及内陆省份的代工厂进行卧底调查…发现，这些代工厂为了达成 品牌紧迫的送货时间，迫使工人加班…是次所有工厂的工资都以十分微薄的固定件价计算，工人唯有透过加 班尽其可能地增加产量，才能勉强餬口。淡旺季以及品牌频繁地改变订单款式更令工人的工资不稳定。总的来说，工人的工资实质上十分低，不足以维持生活所需…工人经常在没有充足防护设备的情况下接触有毒化学物品，棉尘和有害粉尘…所有工厂都没有能真正代表工人的工会，或者让员工发声的管道。工会大多由管理层组成；当工人尝试罢工时，工人代表则被工厂打压或是贿赂。